The Trasimeno Terroir
Mirrors of water that fill the landscape and reflect the green hills frame this terroir dedicated to viticulture. Vaiano (371 meters above sea level) and the nearby Cimbano (369 meters) are important rural settlements that preserve, still intact, archaeological remains from Etruscan and Roman times.
In this area, a natural and virgin oasis, a viticulture with precise and unique characteristics has its roots. The conformation of the area acts as a thermal flywheel creating a unique microclimate, with good temperature ranges, that give freshness and longevity to the wines, with mild winters and hot but windy summers, optimal conditions for the development of viticulture.
The subsoil, a fundamental nourishment for the vines, has instead clayey and fertile soils, able to give fatness and length to our wines.
Every time it was necessary to give the copper to the French vineyard, the Goldoni, with its rope-rigged motor, mumbled and trudged proudly up the hill. After all, he was the only one who managed to get into the small tree-shaped vineyard.
This is the most beautiful memory of my adolescence between the fields and the rows of vines.
That of the French vineyard is a beautiful story to breathe in deeply. It is more than half a millennium long since Aragon ruled this part of Italy and introduced for the first time Garnacia or rather Grenache. Grapes so linked to the Mediterranean that even with the Sardinian transhumance of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, was replanted with the name of Cannonau.
Today we preserve the characteristics of that centuries-old vineyard thanks to the dedication and courage of grandfather Zino who, in the seventies, grafted the old rooted cuttings into a new vineyard, and thanks to the skillful conservation work of father Enio who has maintained it until now.
Today that heritage, so full of biodiversity, has been re-propagated, and the small vineyard where Goldoni was struggling has been reconstituted giving us savory and crunchy grapes that allow us to have fragrance and elegance in the wine.
I consider them different twins, because both are rustic varieties and generous expressions of the territory but at the same time different for the results. Grechetto represents tradition, more delicate, fresh, immediate. Trebbiano Spoletino, on the other hand, is more structured, full of scents, with a clearer character and great longevity.
Montepulciano and Syrah
Among the red berries, in addition to Gamay del Trasimeno, there are two important leading actors: Sangiovese and Montepulciano.
Sangiovese is the master of the vineyards in central Italy. After more than 15 years of enhancement, we have identified the best vineyard north of a hill in Le Capanne, the one capable of giving an austere and important but at the same time fresh, balanced and very pleasant Sangiovese.
Montepulciano is the variety that stained the hands and dyed the rows of vines of an intense red color. Around the family’s forest lies Vigna Il Macchiolo, which gives a fruit capable of imparting complexity, roundness and longevity to the wine.
A more international touch is Syrah, a vine that represents the light that lit everything in the early 2000s. Returning from a study trip to France I imagined a small Rhone Valley: the sweetness of the Valdichiana hills nestled between the lakes and two actors: the Gamay del Trasimeno and Syrah.